Wood ash - how to use it?

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Sarah Rideout on March 6, 2011 at 14:28

I think the science of it is important, and the type of soil that you have is key. I got this from one of the sites to pop up when 'wood ash benefits' typed into search:

Nutrients are most readily available to plants when the soil is slightly acidic. As soil alkalinity increases and the pH rises above 7.0, nutrients such as phosphorus, iron, boron, manganese, copper, zinc and potassium become chemically tied to the soil and less available for plant use.

Wood ash does have some fertilizer value, the amount varying somewhat with the species of wood being used. Generally, wood ash contains less than 10 percent potash, 1 percent phosphate and trace amounts of micro-nutrients such as iron, manganese, boron, copper and zinc.

 

I sprinkle wood ash at home where the soil is different to my (very alkaline) allotment, there I use well rotted horse manure/chicken manure, and a very light scattering of wood ash. Trace elements are very important and make all the difference to healthy plants, feed the soil, not the plant. Unless its comfrey or seaweed feed...

One patch of raspberries that we didn't manure one year at the allotment had poor growth and yellowing leaves.

Stephen Shirley said:

Ah, now that would be because gardening is a science - but not an exact science!

 

Trust me - they will be fine. Just as I uses Mushroom compost on my raspberries about every 1 year in 3 - and that's full of lime!

Mo said:

Stephen, I'm confused by your post. Wood Ash is alkaline. You say raspberries prefer acid but then say give them wood ash?

Stephen Shirley said:

There are many many soft fruits that prefer and acid soil - raspberries and hybrid berries for a start!

Wood ash is fantastic and should be spread straight onto the veg / fruit patch. Use it on your raspberries and hybrid berries  (as previously mentioned). Alliums do well on it to - so your Winter planted garlic and onion sets will love it.

As for the excess, use it on the bed you are manuring this year.

My only to tip would be to rake it out as soon as you tip it out - otherwise a damp day or two will turn the heap into something resembling concrete!

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Stephen Shirley on March 6, 2011 at 21:15

I agree, the science is important - but sometimes needs to be half ignored if you are to get best results!

With regard to the bit you found on the net, I should point out that it's not so much that the specific nutrients are locked by pH but more the fact that certain kinds of plant roots cannot absorb the nutrients in certain pH's - the obvious example being ericaceous plants where alkalinity prevents the absorption of iron - and so people use sequestrated iron and similar to overdose the soil so allow some absorption. (in that particular case planting with a handful of rusty old nails works just as well and is a damn site cheaper!)

 

Sarah Rideout said:

I think the science of it is important, and the type of soil that you have is key. I got this from one of the sites to pop up when 'wood ash benefits' typed into search:

Nutrients are most readily available to plants when the soil is slightly acidic. As soil alkalinity increases and the pH rises above 7.0, nutrients such as phosphorus, iron, boron, manganese, copper, zinc and potassium become chemically tied to the soil and less available for plant use.

Wood ash does have some fertilizer value, the amount varying somewhat with the species of wood being used. Generally, wood ash contains less than 10 percent potash, 1 percent phosphate and trace amounts of micro-nutrients such as iron, manganese, boron, copper and zinc.

 

I sprinkle wood ash at home where the soil is different to my (very alkaline) allotment, there I use well rotted horse manure/chicken manure, and a very light scattering of wood ash. Trace elements are very important and make all the difference to healthy plants, feed the soil, not the plant. Unless its comfrey or seaweed feed...

One patch of raspberries that we didn't manure one year at the allotment had poor growth and yellowing leaves.

Stephen Shirley said:

Ah, now that would be because gardening is a science - but not an exact science!

 

Trust me - they will be fine. Just as I uses Mushroom compost on my raspberries about every 1 year in 3 - and that's full of lime!

Mo said:

Stephen, I'm confused by your post. Wood Ash is alkaline. You say raspberries prefer acid but then say give them wood ash?

Stephen Shirley said:

There are many many soft fruits that prefer and acid soil - raspberries and hybrid berries for a start!

Wood ash is fantastic and should be spread straight onto the veg / fruit patch. Use it on your raspberries and hybrid berries  (as previously mentioned). Alliums do well on it to - so your Winter planted garlic and onion sets will love it.

As for the excess, use it on the bed you are manuring this year.

My only to tip would be to rake it out as soon as you tip it out - otherwise a damp day or two will turn the heap into something resembling concrete!

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Mo on March 7, 2011 at 8:05

I recall that planting nails with hygrangea roots changes the colour of the flowers?

Stephen Shirley said:

I agree, the science is important - but sometimes needs to be half ignored if you are to get best results!

With regard to the bit you found on the net, I should point out that it's not so much that the specific nutrients are locked by pH but more the fact that certain kinds of plant roots cannot absorb the nutrients in certain pH's - the obvious example being ericaceous plants where alkalinity prevents the absorption of iron - and so people use sequestrated iron and similar to overdose the soil so allow some absorption. (in that particular case planting with a handful of rusty old nails works just as well and is a damn site cheaper!)

 

Sarah Rideout said:

I think the science of it is important, and the type of soil that you have is key. I got this from one of the sites to pop up when 'wood ash benefits' typed into search:

Nutrients are most readily available to plants when the soil is slightly acidic. As soil alkalinity increases and the pH rises above 7.0, nutrients such as phosphorus, iron, boron, manganese, copper, zinc and potassium become chemically tied to the soil and less available for plant use.

Wood ash does have some fertilizer value, the amount varying somewhat with the species of wood being used. Generally, wood ash contains less than 10 percent potash, 1 percent phosphate and trace amounts of micro-nutrients such as iron, manganese, boron, copper and zinc.

 

I sprinkle wood ash at home where the soil is different to my (very alkaline) allotment, there I use well rotted horse manure/chicken manure, and a very light scattering of wood ash. Trace elements are very important and make all the difference to healthy plants, feed the soil, not the plant. Unless its comfrey or seaweed feed...

One patch of raspberries that we didn't manure one year at the allotment had poor growth and yellowing leaves.

Stephen Shirley said:

Ah, now that would be because gardening is a science - but not an exact science!

 

Trust me - they will be fine. Just as I uses Mushroom compost on my raspberries about every 1 year in 3 - and that's full of lime!

Mo said:

Stephen, I'm confused by your post. Wood Ash is alkaline. You say raspberries prefer acid but then say give them wood ash?

Stephen Shirley said:

There are many many soft fruits that prefer and acid soil - raspberries and hybrid berries for a start!

Wood ash is fantastic and should be spread straight onto the veg / fruit patch. Use it on your raspberries and hybrid berries  (as previously mentioned). Alliums do well on it to - so your Winter planted garlic and onion sets will love it.

As for the excess, use it on the bed you are manuring this year.

My only to tip would be to rake it out as soon as you tip it out - otherwise a damp day or two will turn the heap into something resembling concrete!

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Sarah Rideout on March 7, 2011 at 16:35

Thanks Stephen thats interesting, we have been given some Blueberries, are you saying that adding the iron in rusty nail or seq iron form would be enough to change the ph without using ericaceous compost?

Stephen Shirley said:

I agree, the science is important - but sometimes needs to be half ignored if you are to get best results!

With regard to the bit you found on the net, I should point out that it's not so much that the specific nutrients are locked by pH but more the fact that certain kinds of plant roots cannot absorb the nutrients in certain pH's - the obvious example being ericaceous plants where alkalinity prevents the absorption of iron - and so people use sequestrated iron and similar to overdose the soil so allow some absorption. (in that particular case planting with a handful of rusty old nails works just as well and is a damn site cheaper!)

 

Sarah Rideout said:

I think the science of it is important, and the type of soil that you have is key. I got this from one of the sites to pop up when 'wood ash benefits' typed into search:

Nutrients are most readily available to plants when the soil is slightly acidic. As soil alkalinity increases and the pH rises above 7.0, nutrients such as phosphorus, iron, boron, manganese, copper, zinc and potassium become chemically tied to the soil and less available for plant use.

Wood ash does have some fertilizer value, the amount varying somewhat with the species of wood being used. Generally, wood ash contains less than 10 percent potash, 1 percent phosphate and trace amounts of micro-nutrients such as iron, manganese, boron, copper and zinc.

 

I sprinkle wood ash at home where the soil is different to my (very alkaline) allotment, there I use well rotted horse manure/chicken manure, and a very light scattering of wood ash. Trace elements are very important and make all the difference to healthy plants, feed the soil, not the plant. Unless its comfrey or seaweed feed...

One patch of raspberries that we didn't manure one year at the allotment had poor growth and yellowing leaves.

Stephen Shirley said:

Ah, now that would be because gardening is a science - but not an exact science!

 

Trust me - they will be fine. Just as I uses Mushroom compost on my raspberries about every 1 year in 3 - and that's full of lime!

Mo said:

Stephen, I'm confused by your post. Wood Ash is alkaline. You say raspberries prefer acid but then say give them wood ash?

Stephen Shirley said:

There are many many soft fruits that prefer and acid soil - raspberries and hybrid berries for a start!

Wood ash is fantastic and should be spread straight onto the veg / fruit patch. Use it on your raspberries and hybrid berries  (as previously mentioned). Alliums do well on it to - so your Winter planted garlic and onion sets will love it.

As for the excess, use it on the bed you are manuring this year.

My only to tip would be to rake it out as soon as you tip it out - otherwise a damp day or two will turn the heap into something resembling concrete!

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Stephen Shirley on March 7, 2011 at 17:12

Hi Sarah

 

No, it wont change the soil pH - but what it will do is overdose the soil with iron - thus making it available. If you wnatd to acidify the soild you can of course use rock suplhur.

 

Sarah Rideout said:

Thanks Stephen thats interesting, we have been given some Blueberries, are you saying that adding the iron in rusty nail or seq iron form would be enough to change the ph without using ericaceous compost?

Stephen Shirley said:

I agree, the science is important - but sometimes needs to be half ignored if you are to get best results!

With regard to the bit you found on the net, I should point out that it's not so much that the specific nutrients are locked by pH but more the fact that certain kinds of plant roots cannot absorb the nutrients in certain pH's - the obvious example being ericaceous plants where alkalinity prevents the absorption of iron - and so people use sequestrated iron and similar to overdose the soil so allow some absorption. (in that particular case planting with a handful of rusty old nails works just as well and is a damn site cheaper!)

 

Sarah Rideout said:

I think the science of it is important, and the type of soil that you have is key. I got this from one of the sites to pop up when 'wood ash benefits' typed into search:

Nutrients are most readily available to plants when the soil is slightly acidic. As soil alkalinity increases and the pH rises above 7.0, nutrients such as phosphorus, iron, boron, manganese, copper, zinc and potassium become chemically tied to the soil and less available for plant use.

Wood ash does have some fertilizer value, the amount varying somewhat with the species of wood being used. Generally, wood ash contains less than 10 percent potash, 1 percent phosphate and trace amounts of micro-nutrients such as iron, manganese, boron, copper and zinc.

 

I sprinkle wood ash at home where the soil is different to my (very alkaline) allotment, there I use well rotted horse manure/chicken manure, and a very light scattering of wood ash. Trace elements are very important and make all the difference to healthy plants, feed the soil, not the plant. Unless its comfrey or seaweed feed...

One patch of raspberries that we didn't manure one year at the allotment had poor growth and yellowing leaves.

Stephen Shirley said:

Ah, now that would be because gardening is a science - but not an exact science!

 

Trust me - they will be fine. Just as I uses Mushroom compost on my raspberries about every 1 year in 3 - and that's full of lime!

Mo said:

Stephen, I'm confused by your post. Wood Ash is alkaline. You say raspberries prefer acid but then say give them wood ash?

Stephen Shirley said:

There are many many soft fruits that prefer and acid soil - raspberries and hybrid berries for a start!

Wood ash is fantastic and should be spread straight onto the veg / fruit patch. Use it on your raspberries and hybrid berries  (as previously mentioned). Alliums do well on it to - so your Winter planted garlic and onion sets will love it.

As for the excess, use it on the bed you are manuring this year.

My only to tip would be to rake it out as soon as you tip it out - otherwise a damp day or two will turn the heap into something resembling concrete!

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Stephen Shirley on March 7, 2011 at 17:16

Hi Mo

 

Aluminium sulphate is the favourite blueing agent for Hydrangeas - but yes iron is sometimes used.

 

The other trick is to acidify the soil as hyrdangeas tend to be blue on acid soil and pink on alkali- so the wrong way round to litmus paper!

 

 

Mo said:

I recall that planting nails with hydrangea roots changes the colour of the flowers?

Stephen Shirley said:

I agree, the science is important - but sometimes needs to be half ignored if you are to get best results!

With regard to the bit you found on the net, I should point out that it's not so much that the specific nutrients are locked by pH but more the fact that certain kinds of plant roots cannot absorb the nutrients in certain pH's - the obvious example being ericaceous plants where alkalinity prevents the absorption of iron - and so people use sequestrated iron and similar to overdose the soil so allow some absorption. (in that particular case planting with a handful of rusty old nails works just as well and is a damn site cheaper!)

 

Sarah Rideout said:

I think the science of it is important, and the type of soil that you have is key. I got this from one of the sites to pop up when 'wood ash benefits' typed into search:

Nutrients are most readily available to plants when the soil is slightly acidic. As soil alkalinity increases and the pH rises above 7.0, nutrients such as phosphorus, iron, boron, manganese, copper, zinc and potassium become chemically tied to the soil and less available for plant use.

Wood ash does have some fertilizer value, the amount varying somewhat with the species of wood being used. Generally, wood ash contains less than 10 percent potash, 1 percent phosphate and trace amounts of micro-nutrients such as iron, manganese, boron, copper and zinc.

 

I sprinkle wood ash at home where the soil is different to my (very alkaline) allotment, there I use well rotted horse manure/chicken manure, and a very light scattering of wood ash. Trace elements are very important and make all the difference to healthy plants, feed the soil, not the plant. Unless its comfrey or seaweed feed...

One patch of raspberries that we didn't manure one year at the allotment had poor growth and yellowing leaves.

Stephen Shirley said:

Ah, now that would be because gardening is a science - but not an exact science!

 

Trust me - they will be fine. Just as I uses Mushroom compost on my raspberries about every 1 year in 3 - and that's full of lime!

Mo said:

Stephen, I'm confused by your post. Wood Ash is alkaline. You say raspberries prefer acid but then say give them wood ash?

Stephen Shirley said:

There are many many soft fruits that prefer and acid soil - raspberries and hybrid berries for a start!

Wood ash is fantastic and should be spread straight onto the veg / fruit patch. Use it on your raspberries and hybrid berries  (as previously mentioned). Alliums do well on it to - so your Winter planted garlic and onion sets will love it.

As for the excess, use it on the bed you are manuring this year.

My only to tip would be to rake it out as soon as you tip it out - otherwise a damp day or two will turn the heap into something resembling concrete!

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Sarah Rideout on March 7, 2011 at 17:49

Is that the same as flowers of sulphur, do they all originate from sulphur mining or is it one of those things with a ambiguous name (seems unlikely!) 

Did you see the programme the other night showing sulphur mining? Think it was Human planet or something like that - the conditions are truly horrendous with people digging the yellow rock out by hand, in the sulphur fumes. Definitely an industry that needs to address its workers' safety.
Sorry we are creeping away from wood ash!

Stephen Shirley said:

Hi Sarah

 

No, it wont change the soil pH - but what it will do is overdose the soil with iron - thus making it available. If you wnatd to acidify the soild you can of course use rock suplhur.

 

Sarah Rideout said:

Thanks Stephen thats interesting, we have been given some Blueberries, are you saying that adding the iron in rusty nail or seq iron form would be enough to change the ph without using ericaceous compost?

Stephen Shirley said:

I agree, the science is important - but sometimes needs to be half ignored if you are to get best results!

With regard to the bit you found on the net, I should point out that it's not so much that the specific nutrients are locked by pH but more the fact that certain kinds of plant roots cannot absorb the nutrients in certain pH's - the obvious example being ericaceous plants where alkalinity prevents the absorption of iron - and so people use sequestrated iron and similar to overdose the soil so allow some absorption. (in that particular case planting with a handful of rusty old nails works just as well and is a damn site cheaper!)

 

Sarah Rideout said:

I think the science of it is important, and the type of soil that you have is key. I got this from one of the sites to pop up when 'wood ash benefits' typed into search:

Nutrients are most readily available to plants when the soil is slightly acidic. As soil alkalinity increases and the pH rises above 7.0, nutrients such as phosphorus, iron, boron, manganese, copper, zinc and potassium become chemically tied to the soil and less available for plant use.

Wood ash does have some fertilizer value, the amount varying somewhat with the species of wood being used. Generally, wood ash contains less than 10 percent potash, 1 percent phosphate and trace amounts of micro-nutrients such as iron, manganese, boron, copper and zinc.

 

I sprinkle wood ash at home where the soil is different to my (very alkaline) allotment, there I use well rotted horse manure/chicken manure, and a very light scattering of wood ash. Trace elements are very important and make all the difference to healthy plants, feed the soil, not the plant. Unless its comfrey or seaweed feed...

One patch of raspberries that we didn't manure one year at the allotment had poor growth and yellowing leaves.

Stephen Shirley said:

Ah, now that would be because gardening is a science - but not an exact science!

 

Trust me - they will be fine. Just as I uses Mushroom compost on my raspberries about every 1 year in 3 - and that's full of lime!

Mo said:

Stephen, I'm confused by your post. Wood Ash is alkaline. You say raspberries prefer acid but then say give them wood ash?

Stephen Shirley said:

There are many many soft fruits that prefer and acid soil - raspberries and hybrid berries for a start!

Wood ash is fantastic and should be spread straight onto the veg / fruit patch. Use it on your raspberries and hybrid berries  (as previously mentioned). Alliums do well on it to - so your Winter planted garlic and onion sets will love it.

As for the excess, use it on the bed you are manuring this year.

My only to tip would be to rake it out as soon as you tip it out - otherwise a damp day or two will turn the heap into something resembling concrete!

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Tania Richardson on March 7, 2011 at 22:09

 

I remember watching a programme a few years ago now which featured a lady called Ruth Mott who used to cook, while the gardener, a gentlemen called Harry Dodson looked after a walled garden? I seem to remember he put wood ash on his tomatoes as a potash feed?

Best wishes,

 

Tania.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Stephen Shirley on March 8, 2011 at 9:07

Sarah

Both flowers and rock are both sulphur I think it is becuase of the grade they get the different name.

 

I didn't catch the prog on sulphur mining - but I can imagine. You could always stand next to a volcano and catch some when it erupts? - but that would probably be more dangerous than mining it.

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